Concept de primăvară
A venit primăvara şi, criză sau necriză, femeile vor continua să-şi dorească şi să-şi cumpere haine.
E o realitate valabilă de secole - cu siguranţă şi în timpul
Războiului de 100 de ani şi chiar în perioada Terorii, rochiile,
bonetele şi bijuteriile continuau să se vândă - că doar nu poţi să
asişti la o decapitare sau la o bătălie (Becky Sharp ştia cel mai
bine) sau la şedinţa de restructurare într-o rochie veche de două
sezoane. Ar fi pur şi simplu deprimant...
Iar concept store-urile din Bucureşti au reuşit, în ultima vreme,
să profite tot mai mult de celebrul adevăr "ochii văd, inima cere",
astfel încât primăvara aduce multe noutăţi în acest domeniu.
Entrance (str. Brezoianu nr. 23-25) are o selecţie formată din
branduri manufacturate, pe bază de recomandări din partea altor
branduri cu care lucrează deja şi o cercetare minuţioasă a
noutăţilor şi trendurilor anuale. Fiecare piesă este aleasă în
maxim 2-3 exemplare, iar alegerea fiecărui designer este personală.
De remarcat portofoliul împărţit în designeri rezidenţi şi
designeri pe care îi schimbă în fiecare sezon, astfel încât
întotdeauna vei găsi ceva nou.
Brandurile rezidente sunt: Comme des Garçons (Japonia), Marithé et
François Girbaud (Franţa), Ivan Grundahl (Danemarca), Obscur
(Suedia), Syngman Cucala (Spania).
Una dintre noutăţile propuse de Entrance este brand-ul Share Spirit
(Japonia) cu o colecţie nouă, inspirată ca în fiecare an din
călătoriile designerului Hikoru Katano. Katano se defineşte ca
arheolog, călător şi poet şi îşi doreşte ca hainele pe care le
creează să transmită emoţiile şi descoperirile trăite în drumurile
sale. Pentru primăvara - vara 2010, colecţia este inspirată de
America de Sud şi se remarcă prin culori vii, ţesături variate cu
accente date de accesorii din os, lemn, perle, lemn sau metal.
Influenţele vin din Mexic, Peru sau sate aztece retrase. În afară
de colecţiile vestimentare, Entrance aduce un brand de bijuterii
exclusiviste Monies, care impresionează prin masivitate şi
lucrătură din materiale speciale precum oase, ceramică, lemn
preţios, jad, chihlimbar.
The Mews ( Intr. Tudor Ştefan nr. 7) propune noutăţile din
colecţiile primăvară - vară 2010 de la (by) Malene Birger,
Heimstone, American Retro şi genţile Erva.
(by) Malene Birger (Danemarca) a lansat colecţia The House
inspirată de designul interior. Colecţia este definită de
feminitate şi senzualitate subtilă - în ton cu cele mai noi
tendinţe care au impus sobrietatea şi simplitatea în detrimentul
decolteurilor generoase şi al accesoriilor bling. Majoritatea
pieselor de la (by) Malene Birger pot fi purtate în mai multe
feluri şi în mai toate momentele zilei - în ton cu alt trend impus
de criză: versatilitatea economicoasă. Materialul vedetă este
mătasea cu o ţesătură specială, care diferă de la o creaţie la
alta, în funcţie de ceea ce îşi doreşte să transmită. Mi-a plăcut
rochia cu imprimeu de şarpe, mult mai subtil decât fratele său mai
mare - animal print - adesea sinonim cu kitsch-ul şi criza vârstei
mijlocii.
Heimstone (Paris) - noua colecţie aduce combinaţii inedite de
materiale precum bumbac nefinisat cu mătase sau mătase cu piele.
Piesa vedetă este rochia, iar temele principale sunt stilul
Aborigen, Samurai si Run DMC, hip-hop-ul anilor '80. Rochiile sunt
şic, cool, definite de buzunare şi fermoare. American Retro
(Franţa) - noua colecţie este inspirată de Pop Culture şi filmul
"Al Cincilea Element", plus Elvis Presley - element recurent în
imprimeuri. În afară de imprimeurile cu Elvis, am remarcat
pantalonii cu detalii metalice.
ERVA (Spania) este o manufactură de genţi. Designul este
un clasicism adaptat trendurilor actuale. Fiecare geantă poartă
simbolul casei, pietre de râu şlefuite şi prelucrate.
La Clara (Calea Victoriei nr. 83-85) este un "magazinaş" concept,
al cărui element cheie este perechea de jeans. Principalele linii
de jeans sunt de la Citizens of Humanity şi J&Company, iar
fiecare pereche vine într-o singură măsură. În plus, toate hainele
şi accesoriile din magazin au fost alese pentru a fi purtate cu
jeans.
Noua colecţie de la Citizens of Humanity este o combinaţie de
Rivieră franceză amestecată cu punk şi vintage. Croielile sunt
clasice şi evidenţiate de culorile obţinute prin diverse tehnici de
prelucrare a denimului.
J&Company este brandul preferat de multe celebrităţi din State.
Jeanşii pot fi purtaţi atât pentru ţinute casual, dar şi în
combinaţii sofisticate - ceea ce sincer nu e nicio noutate, având
în vedere că de "n" sezoane o pereche de jeans merge şi la job, şi
la party.
Pentru accesorizarea jeanşilor, "La Clara" propune bluzele şi
cămăşile de la Antique Batik şi Les Petites, cizmele de la Stallion
lucrate manual şi bijuteriile de la Tarina Tarantino.
Timeout, 8 mar 2010
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